Case: Steel. Original untouched condition. This has never been polished; I’ll leave it up to you whether you choose to polish the case, but you won’t find me messing with the original contours and lines on this classic military case design. The case back is marked USN BuShips (U.S. Navy, Bureau of Ships), Longines Watch Co. SWISS. 22838/606. 606 is also stamped on one lug, matching the case back to the case. This screw down case is one of the early attempts to produce a waterproof or water resistant watch; before the age of rubber gaskets, maleable lead gaskets were used, which is amazingly still present on this example.
Crown: Original oversized, unsigned crown.
Dial: Original, factory finished military spec. 12 hour dial with some beautiful patina, particularly on the original lume.
Crystal: Acrylic crystal recently replaced.
Movement: What can you say? These military spec. manual wind watch movements were built tough. This particular movement is the venerable Longines calibre 10L. My master watchmaker has performed a full inspection and servicing on this watch. The watch was completely disassembled, the appropriate parts were cleaned in the ultrasonic and then oiled using the finest quality Swiss Moebius oils. The mainspring was replaced. It was regulated and is keeping good time. This watch is not waterproof. Please take care to keep it dry.
From Patrick Linder’s authoritative work on Longines, “At The Heart of an Industrial Vocation, Longines watch movements 1832-2009,” the 10.68N (10L in America) represented a novel new approach to the centre seconds movement for Longines. “Like the 10.68Z, 8.68N, 25.17, 9.40, or 12.68Z, which had a [centre seconds] function, the 10.68N had an additional bridge to support the centre seconds which was screwed on to the bridges that assumed the contours of the gears in the winding mechanism, its gear-train bridge had been modified. This large bridge, which held the third wheel and the contrate wheel, was raised above the level of the barrel-bridge. This enabled the third wheel to engage directly with the pinion of the centre seconds. A bejewelled and polished steel plate which was screwed on to the gear-train bridge and blanked to assume its outline and held the pivot, thus ensuring a fine finish to the 10.68N. The transformation of this technical construction principle resulted in a structural shape that was totally new in the Longines catalogue of calibres, although it was a true derivative of the aesthetic lineage of movements made in St. Imier.” Cool!–a spectacularly elegant bit of technical horological expertise, cleverly disguised in a no-nonsense military timepiece.
These vintage military watches are in style right now. Rather than buying a modern watch that’s pretending to be a vintage military piece, why not buy the real deal that will continue to increase in value and rarity as time goes on.
Dimensions: 41mm x 33.5 mm without crown, 36 with crown. 16mm strap.
Band: Will ship with a NOS pigskin leather band installed.
Shipping: Domestic shipping via 2nd day air FedEx fully insured by ParcelPro. International orders, will ship via Fedex International. Please select these options at checkout.
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